A fairly good general reference video about historical/traditional fashion of various cultures and peoples (including hanfu, but not just hanfu) that have been part of Chinese history:
The video is arranged in chronological order, below are the timestamps:
0:24 - Warring States period/战国 hanfu (for those who don't know: hanfu/汉服 is the historical and traditional outfits of Han people/汉族)
1:16 - Western Han dynasty/西汉 hanfu
2:11 - Jingjue Kingdom/精绝 and Loulan Kingdom/楼兰 historical outfits
2:45 - Eastern Han dynasty/东汉 to Three Kingdoms period/三国 hanfu
3:51 - Northern Dynasties/北朝 Xianbei/鲜卑 historical outfits
4:46 - Southern Dynasties/南朝 hanfu
5:25 - Sui dynasty/隋 hanfu
5:56 - Tang dynasty/唐 hanfu
6:38 - Sogdian/粟特 historical outfits
6:59 - Tubo Empire/吐蕃 Tibetan/藏族 historical outfits
7:38 - Huihu/回鹘 historical outfits (Qocho Huihu Kingdom/高昌回鹘 and Ganzhou Huihu Kingdom/甘州回鹘; note: Huihu people are the ancestors of the modern Uyghur people/维吾尔族)
8:21 - Nanzhao Kingdom/南诏 historical outfits (of the ancestors of the modern Yi people/彝族 and Bai people/白族)
9:07 - Five Dynasties/五代 hanfu
9:57 - Northern Song dynasty/北宋 hanfu
10:38 - Liao dynasty/辽 Khitan/契丹 historical outfits
11:21 - Jin dynasty/金 Jurchen/女真 historical outfits
12:07 - Western Xia/西夏 Tangut/党项 historical outfits
12:37 - Dali Kingdom/大理 historical outfits (of the ancestors of the modern Bai people/白族)
13:20 - Southern Song dynasty/南宋 hanfu
14:00 - Yuan dynasty/元 Mongolian/蒙古族 historical outfits
14:58 - Yuan dynasty women's hanfu
15:24 - Ming dynasty/明 hanfu
16:24 - Qing dynasty/清 Manchu/满族 traditional outfits
16:59 - Qing dynasty Han women's outfit
**Note: as mentioned by the OP, due to the lack of suriviving physical artifacts for some time periods/cultures/kingdoms/dynasties, there is a certain amount of speculation in this video based on other artifacts/records like wall murals, paintings, figurines, and historical records.
nothing has made me realize that joongdok are gay and canon more than this bingo and the fact that joongdok cross every single one
homoerotic fighting: divorce arc and theater dungeon
gay stare: this happens on every interaction. I cannot list them all in one post
Adopted a child together: Yoo Joonghyuk raised Biyoo. Yoo Joonghyuk trained Shin Yooseung hard to the point she has the story "Disciple of the Supreme King." Yoo Joonghyuk sparred with Lee Gilyoung and taught him lessons on regrets (Lee Gilyoung thought Yoo Joonghyuk can't be philosophical to save his life). All three of these kids consider Kim Dokja their father too.
"Let's run away together.": "Let's go back to Earth, Kim Dokja.
Lands in a homoerotic position: The only duo to have seen each other naked. Among other things.
Jokes about them being gay: "Hmm, maybe if your position changes..." "Wait, how did you give birth to a child?" "Are you two a couple?" "I heard you're interested in sodomy." "I know. I know. You don't like girls." "I think you're misinformed. Hyung likes a man." "I'M NOT INTERESTED IN MEN." "I think I know who spread that rumor but ignore her. I like women." etc
Gets mistaken for a couple: Read above but also the fact they got nominated for Star Stream's best chemistry award.
Promises that sounds like vows: Having a story that's titled "Life and Death Companions" (aka marriage vows) isn't enough they had to make each other promises like "We can save the world. You know that right." "I'll finish your story for you." "I'll end your oldest dream." "You fool, you're not reading alone." "If you won't do it (won't open up to me), fool, then I will (force you to open up to me)." "If I choose you as my sponsor will I get to meet you?" "1864." "Tell me you fool if I continue to regress will I ever get to meet you?" "Let's make a promise. Never give up on life. As long as you don't give up on life, I will continue to write for you."
Referred to as a married couple: To this day Lee Jihye thought they were divorced and Yoo Joonghyuk hadn't paid child support.
Violence, cannibalism, or blood: some people might consider choking your soulmate upon first meeting to be violent. Also consuming stories (people are stories) as a metaphor for cannibalism. I don't need to talk about blood. Yoo Joonghyuk's blood was spilled 1864 times and none of it scarred him as much as him being forced to spill Kim Dokja's blood by his own hands.
Parallels or foils of each other: although not too... in your face, joongdok are foils of each other at times. Case in point the CEO interview where Kim Dokja says he doesn't plan to save anyone but his friends (he ends up saving everyone at the cost of his own) and Yoo Joonghyuk says he'll try his best to see this turn to its end (he ends up leaving everything for the chance to bring one person back). They're also parallels in very specific ways. Kim Dokja has chosen to parallel 999th Yoo Joonghyuk. Both self-sacrifice out of love for their companions and guilt over their own survival (thinking they're both the only person to actually "exist"). And Lee Hakhyun is a parallel to 1863rd Yoo Joonghyuk.
"You saved me.": "You saved me once. Now I'm going to save you." "He recognized that light. It was the light of the star that had protected him all this time."
If one was a girl, they'd end up together: so many people in the fandom have said this. Especially when they learn that Punisher is Yoo Joonghyuk.
Adopted a pet together: Breaking the Sky Sword Master kicked their asses and so they had no choice but to adopt her.
Both Single: See, this is what sets JoongDok apart from other yaoi. They do not have love interests. Lee Seolhwa doesn't care for Yoo Joonghyuk romantically in this round, and Yoo Joonghyuk hasn't had the time to even think about romance when his life and death companion is giving him a brand new regression depression every time he sacrifices himself. And as for Kim Dokja, the idea of dating him gets treated as a joke by the KimCom women who also make lighthearted fun about his size (Jung Heewon and Han Sooyoung) and frankly speaking, all of them deserve better than these two.
Being the only ones able to understand each other: "Perhaps, Yoo Joonghyuk understood my heart better than anyone else." ALSO I have a take that many of you reading this might consider it controversial, but you will only take this away from me once I'm dead. Yoo Joonghyuk and Kim Dokja understand each other better than Kim Dokja and Han Sooyoung do. Sure, Yoo Joonghyuk and Kim Dokja have a wall they need to break first before reaching the point of understanding each other without the need to speak words. But Kim Dokja and Han Sooyoung have a wall too and they never once managed to actually break it (They know nothing about each other outside of fiction related matters, which I guess you could make the argument that in a story where fiction became reality other things wouldn't matter, however keep in mind that all the problems Kimcom faced during the epilogue come from the fact that these two do not, in fact, understand each other. Kim Dokja treated Han Sooyoung as a companion but Han Sooyoung saw Kim Dokja as only a reader.)
Lives together (and they were roommates): Singshong already said in their interview for the simplified chinese release that Kim Dokja's dream of 'Buying a big house and living together with everyone' is shared by Yoo Joonghyuk too.
Trauma bonded: *insert he's just like me fr image*
Codependent / Can't live without each other: there's no one in orv who embodies this as well and as catastrophically as these two do. being created for the sole purpose of saving one person. taking the chance to regress and doom the world over and over to save him. searching for this one person harder than anyone else.
Accidental kiss / hug / hand holding etc: Yes, I know. JoongDok do everything under the sun but hug. It's as shocking to you as it is to me. They have held hands however when they were announcing the name of their nebula and a biblical angel thought the perfect name for it would be 'forbidden fruit.' When in doubt, always turn to yaoi.
Breakup scene: Normal people when they break up: each go their own way. They block each other on social media etc. JoongDok when they broke up: Hundreds dead. Thousands injured. Friends not spared. Depression galore.
Practically on a date: Look me in the eye and tell me Murim arc and Journey to the West arc is not just JoongDok on a date.
Their happy ending MUST include both of them: yeah that's why 551 chapters weren't enough. Now we're 123 chapters away from chapter 1000.
"What did you do to them?" AKA protective: "Was it you who beat my companion to this state?" "I will find the person responsible for this mess and... kill them."
LOTS of physical touch: their first meeting starts with a physical touch. They constantly touch each other without fail.
Hello, is there any evidence and/or depictions of Tamg Dynasty women actually wearing the hezi as an undergarment rather than an outer garment?
(If you don't know what "hezi/诃子" is, I'll put it under the Keep Reading.)
Hi!!
I checked on Baidu, I checked on Google, I checked on Bili, I checked in my Hanfu books, I checked on 小红书 (popular Chinese app), and from all the information I gathered the simple answer is:
No.
As of right now, there are no artefacts or paintings depicting women of the Tang Dynasty wearing the undergarment hezi (诃子) inside. I imagine one of the difficulties with undergarments is most depictions (paintings, figures, etc) wouldn't show people wearing it without outer wear, so we can only rely on tomb excavations to unearth actual garments, and right now none have been discovered.
But you never know what they might uncover in the future! I heard when they expanded Xi'an's airport last time they dug out 3,500 tombs, so they're always finding new things :D
Hezi (诃子) is a woman's undergarment that many people thought was worn during the Tang Dynasty. It was strapless and covered the bust, then gradually evolved to be worn with portions being viewable on the outside (the green strip across the bust would be the 'hezi'):
However, no actual artefacts have been uncovered to show anyone wearing hezi inside, so the official status of this garment is "under question (存疑)".
A lot of Hanfu stores sell hezi dresses (诃子裙) which is actually not a historically accurate garment. They connect the top and bottom portion so it's just one long dress rather than separated (and they added straps for convenience). It does tend to be a very "stereotypical" look for the Tang Dynasty for people who aren't familiar with historically accurate Hanfu:
Xianle Quartet is a top tier polyship not only because of the metric ton of emotional baggage (and the sheer volume of sexual tension and awakening possible between 3 virgins and an effectively celibate fertility god), but also simply because they're all from a country renowned for beauty and pretentiousness, therefore treating impossible beauty standards as the norm.
Xie Lian's canon internal thoughts consist of not infrequently calling people ugly. Can we blame him? He was raised constantly surrounded by and continues to surround himself with devastatingly attractive people. Feng Xin, canonically olive-skinned and handsome, archer's figure. Mu Qing, canonically delicate-appearing and pretty. Hua Cheng, growing up to be tall and savagely beautiful.
Meanwhile, Hua Cheng is a literal fashionista, decked out in every possible silver accessory at any given moment, jingling like a Christmas elf and fabulous while doing it. He throws money around on luxury items just because he can, and his taste is impeccable. Mu Qing straight up destroys his own statues if they're ugly, literally described as wearing luxurious robes that he probably made himself because no one could do it better. They're the divas of this operation. They're judging you, hard, and they want you to know it, so you will.
Xie Lian is the equivalent of the naturally beautiful friend who doesn't wash their face with anything but a bar of soap and comes out looking flawless. He needs absolutely zero fashion sense because he could wear a trash bag and people would think it looks high fashion. Feng Xin is the himbo friend who washes with 10-in-1, yet his skin glistens in the sun like an oiled up ancient greek olympian. He does a normal amount of working out and comes out shaped like Captain America. They're simply God's Favorite, so they don't need to try.
Basically, I picture them as the blindingly hot polycule walking around like the Cullens entering their high-school cafeteria. Hair blowing in an invisible wind. Throwing incredible amounts of shade in the communication array.
They're hot. They're judgmental. They're literally the Mean Girls.
(Re: This post)
My lacquer allergy is getting better, the blisters have calmed down but some of the popped ones have left me with areas where the skin has peeled. They've scabbed over now, and I think it's in the heeling phase so once the new skin grows I'll be OK (this time, lol).
Unfortunately, since it's all around my wrists the scabs are making it difficult for my to rotate my wrists in any direction. I can barely hold chopsticks, use my toothbrush, pull my clothes on, etc. Luckily I can still practice playing the Guqin so my teacher is having me take it easy on the making side, and focusing more on the playing.
In the meantime, a few Hanfu books I ordered arrived, so I'll post some recommendations until I can hold my stylus pen again :D
This book covers the Tang, Song, and Ming dynasties, it also includes a chapter on Peking Opera costumes and a section on clothing for different holidays/seasonal days like winter solstice.
It includes clothing for casual occasions, special events, for men and women. Each outfit is drawn out, with each garment name labelled. It also details information on hairstyles, hair accessories, makeup, traditional colour palettes, fabric patterns, etc.
This book isn't text-heavy, relying mostly on pictures to relay information. The layout is fairly simple, so if you're just starting to dig into Hanfu history I think this is a good book to use.
An extra little perk is the side of the book is printed with 2 famous historical paintings, a very lovely touch :)
I've been wanting to make a one for so long. Then I saw this fabric in an outlet that sells faulty fabrics discarded from factories, where you can find some unusual stuff that you can't find in regular shops.
This fabric is supposed to have this print all over, but got only printed at the bottom. If you squint you can see faded print marks on the middle section too. The moment I saw this I immediately thought of a mamianqun because a lot of mamianqun come with bottom print 😍.
However do not copy me in this, because I only thought of the pattern and not the fact that the fabric is too bulky and heavy especially for dress with humongous volume. It does not make for for the nicest, crispiest pleats as you can see in the pictures below. Also this is gonna be such a pain to wash and dry.
But I will give myself a pat on the back because this is my first attempt, and for someone who has never taken a formal sewing class nor is able to properly follow any instructional guide because I'm scatterbrained like that, I think I did a pretty swell job! ☺
Even though it took me a whole damn day and numerous frustrating unpicking and redoing over and over again, lol.
Though I am not able to provide you a guide (because like I said, I myself am incapable of following any), I used the following four sources to get an idea about what I am trying to do to begin with. I studied these four, then attempted it myself and figured it out gradually as I went, through trial and error.
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1. This helped me understand the overall geometry of the garment.
2. This gave me clear visual aid about what the end product should look like.
3. This doll-size mamianqun video was simple and gave a very good and non-complex demo of the process.
4. This helped me with understanding how to attach the waistband.
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The modifications I added myself are:
Making the waistband a button-up. As the skirt was already so heavy, I thought a long strip of a tie would make it even more difficult to handle. But at the same time it is not easy to secure something like this so it wouldn't accidentally fall apart. So I used two sturdy buttons from the front, and another button in the back, from inside (you can't see it)
Adding pockets! In the 3rd source I posted above, at the 0:41 mark you see that there's this one huge pleat that gets folded inwards, right?
And I thought, two simple vertical and horizontal stitches from inside can turn them to pockets, so why not!
(Don't look at the imperfections, they are shy ok!)
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More posts by me
They are canonically over 800 years old.
Hmm, I'm surprisingly calmer this chapter (it's the stress i'm telling ya) and so much yapping to be done for EndoChika istg. I'm sorry for sidelining our savior Ume for the nth time, I'll make it up to you king i swear 😭🙏.
My thoughts on Chapter 152 of Wind Breaker so spoilers ahead!
First, the title ("Symbols") is so very fitting let me tell ya.
Secondly, idk why but Sakura being worried for Umemiya is so heart warming 🥹. My son, oh my, have you have grown so much 🥹😭🤧. I hope he gets to do the "babe this isnt you" that other people have said about in previous chapters, but like in the funniest way possible.
Thirdly, this panel of Ume is insane!! LIKE THE EYEE, THIS IS BOFURIN'S LEADER Y'ALL. BEAT HIM UP UME!!
Fourthly, Endo and Takiishi tattoo lore drop??? Not me thinking that tattoo on Endo's left deltoid m. was exclusively for himself then Takiishi takes of his jacket only to reveal the same tattoo as well!?
AND THEN PROCEEDS TO LORE DROP THAT HE DREW THE TATTOO HIMSELF??? Moreover, TAKIISHI AGREED?? these two make me sick (/affectionate)
(TAKIISHI LOOKS SO TINY HELP WHAT-)
AND OF COURSE HE TOOK GREAT CARE IN FINDING SMTHING THAT FITS TAKIISHI SO WELL.
I made a visual for comparison:
(Btw, the "kuzushi" is actually a JP martial arts term for unbalancing an opponent + there's a story behind the Kunikuzushi: to briefly sum it up, a military commander from the Sengoku Period by the name of Ōtomo Sōrin had obtained an ichibiya likely imported from Portuguese Goa, India and used it for battle in other countries hence its name Kunikuzushi.)
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Man's so gay he literally made a soulmark tattoo for his boo. Even Sakura could see it.
Endo lowkey be fantasizing an period dramas in his head with Takiishi and I can respect that.
Him also being jealous of Umemiya that he's the center of Takiishi's thoughts is so hwkwkfksl. Ume would very much like to not be Takiishi's center of attention and can you please get your boyfriend back, please and thank you. This guy I swear, I'm embarrased for you and all your boy failure. Keep doing you hun.
Lastly, this chapter has made Endo more & more relatable and I don't know how I feel about that so I made memes about it:
He's part of the art community my guys. (Not surprising considering he is a prodigy).
Thank you again Nii-sensei for the chapter and to Jacqueline Fung for the official translation 🙏 Please go and support them via the official international release in Kodansha.
(P.S. I've decided to move my wbk content on a new blog specifically for wbk. That also means new chapter rants will be there to for the forseeable future. So if you wanna check that out, come visit me @transient-winds )
Charlos iceberg lore rated by how insane it makes me
okay listen I do in fact hate jun wu with my whole heart but respect to him for making his divorce with mei nianqing literally everyone's problem